Last Day (updated 6/21)

No trip of mine would be complete without last minute panic shopping. I passed up the chance to sleep in and took a taxi to Ver-o-Peso, Belem’s bustling open market. Proud that I finally learned how to barter despite the language barrier, I purchased Brasilian-themed gifts for friends and family back home.

Our last day was spent basking in the natural beauty Belem offers. After a 40 minute ride from the hotel, we found ourselves at a quaint farm complete canoe rides down the mini river, farm animals such as ducks and roosters, and several short hiking trails. Sadly to say, the duck ended up being my lunch.

The farm displayed the Amazon’s biodiversity. What we thought was a small pool actually contained a bed of lily pads with greenery growing off of it. Even the small river on the farm was home to a school of tiny fish that greeted me as I watched my classmates canoe.

While hiking around the farm, there were was such a vast amount of greenery. I could only imagine what the preserved areas of the rainforest look like. The under brush of the hiking trails were very moist- and definitely full of many little creatures and insects. Luckily, we only saw one big tree that had been cut down.

As sunset approached, the class boarded a boat for a sunset ride complete with cultural dances that we all eventually partook in.  If I haven’t mentioned this before, let me mention the widespread comfortability levels in Brazil. People are affectionate and frequently touch, hug, and stand near each other, nor are they shy to express affection in public. Even men in Brasil are more open- frequently preferring swimming briefs as opposed to American men who favor boardshorts.

Also, while on the boat, we also got to see many of the places around town that we had visited in the past two weeks as the sun set in the city.

Like Shakespeare said, parting is such sweet sorrow. In this case, sweet for Alex, Laura and I as we head south for Rio de Janeiro! Stay tuned…

Group pictures are a must.

A trailer and ducks are components of any farm

impromptu hiking

The fort’s nightlights.

Dancing on the boat deck

Brasilian dances are reflective of its people- affectionate.

Off shore offices

A view of the Ver-o-Peso’s backside

There are endless photo ops for clouds in Brasil

Felt like home, with the after-rain rainbows

Boat life and city life.

What we thought was a pool was actually a water-based garden of sorts

Getting atop the stump took a little extra effort.

This little clan kept me entertained.

I was too scared to canoe.

Top 5

Top 5 things I learned about science & environmental journalism

1.  It requires extra, specialized knowledge

Like other fields of reporting, there is so much more below the surface of science and environmental news that can be reported. For example, finding out the people involved in the subject and how they are affected through research will give you the upper hand in reporting. Also, having multiple sources with different views is beneficial to story writing.

2. Oversimplification is a problem

You can not separate the environment and nature because they go hand-in-hand. While this may sound contradictory to my first point, it is crucial to keep your readers in mind.

3. Science tools are your friend

Tools are important because they give way for discoveries and set you apart from the pack by giving you the upper hand as far as technicalities are concerned.

4. Politics, politics, politics

Because of politics, there is more media attention about science and environmental topics. As a result, business have put more money into it. In this instance, it is important to “follow the money” to be able to spot emerging newsworthy trends.

5. Science is about process

Failure or not getting the results you wanted are a part of the science as well. In regards to the “process” of science and environmental reporting, it is important that journalists not wait until things happen. Keeping up with sources enables journalists to stay on their toes and be aware of current and future research topics.  Deadlines which are inherent in journalism, should not need to compromise the quality of a story. While this is true for all types of reporting, in science and environmental reporting, there is much more research to be done.

Top 5 things I learned about the Amazon

1. It’s all connected

Everything in the Amazon is a part of a big chain. Deforestation leads to a loss of homes for animals, price increases for everyone (inhabitants, importers, consumers, and the like), and a lack of biodiversity to say the least.

2. Social responsibility is key

Stemming from my first point, keeping the affected population in mind is crucial. For example, the indigenous tribes of the Amazon have their rights to the land, but encroachment is a recurring theme.

3. Money is a driving force

This idea was reinforced after hearing what our guest speakers had to say. Money-driven corporations are the masterminds behind the vast deforestation in the Amazon.

4. Poor forest

While my pictures may say otherwise, the Amazon is in fact a poor forest. Through slash-and-burn initiatives, the soil remains extremely low in nutrients. As deforestation continues, the impending global tragedy will deplete the vast amount of carbon provided by the trees in the Amazon.

5. Public health is reflective of its conditions

Because most inhabitants of the Amazon are in poverty, overall public health remains low. The reoccurrence of Yellow Fever has proved that public health efforts were not effective. Furthermore, deforestation has caused a relocation of disease-carrying mosquitoes closer to people, thus increasing the chances of becoming infected.

Island girl

Our first lecture-free day and second to last full day in the Amazon consisted of a trip to Marajo Island, an hour’s drive outside of the city. Before settling down on the powder-fine sand, we got to see some 19th century homes. It’s always comforting to know that amidst the ongoing development, there is still preservation that exists.

Today, my classmate Dan (and only other male on the trip besides Dr. Reis) gave a presentation on climate reporting. It was more than appropriate as he gave his beachfront presentation and everyone was clad in beachwear (studying abroad definitely has its perks). He explained the complexity of climate reporting and it was definitely evident that afternoon.

In Brasil, it can be the hottest day, but within 10 minutes, a looming rain cloud rushes in (clouds here move extra fast), and after a minute of baby drops, it starts to poor. As fickle as the weather is here, so is climate on a global scale.

We enjoyed our fare and had a great view of the river and didn’t pay attention to the dark grey cloud that was in the distance. After swimming in the Amazon River for a few minutes, the cloud had encroached above us and it began to rain. In no time, there was a sudden downpour. Like I said, it rains out of nowhere- and most Brasilians are accustomed to the afternoon rain.

Dr. Renato Cal, Dr. Reis’ friend, even said that Brasilians often schedule meetings for “after the rain,” because afternoon rains were the norm. Tonight is our last full night in Belem– five of us are leaving tomorrow at 3AM. Time has flown by so fast! Next stop: Rio de Janeiro!

My favorite picture of the day!

Shore views from the water are just as beautiful as views of the water itself

It’ amazing how hot it can get even with a number of cummulus clouds in the sky.

The island had everything– greenery, powder-fine sand, warm water, and even rocky terrain in the distance

The sun in Belem is extra strong- you don’t think you’re burning, but you really are. Just wait until you start peeling the next day.

Trying to capture the fast movement of the clouds…

Humpday

With only 3 full days left in Belem, we had a fairly light day today. We found ourselves at our pseudo classroom at the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, wrapping up the main ideas of science and environmental journalism and the Amazon region (my top 5 for both categories will follow in the next posting). Diego Santos, a graduating journalism student at the Universidade de Para and 4-month journalist for the museum, interviewed our class for the museum’s newsletter.

After panic shopping at the mall for last minute gifts for friends and family back home, we took a trip to IDESP, a state institution for the economic, social, and sustainability of Para.

Having opened one year and three months ago after the government realized the necessity of a research institution, it serves to address the landscape changes and sustainable development. Peter Mann de Toledo, former director of the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, president of IDESP, described three “pressures” : sugar cane, soybean, and cattle-ranching.

Sugar cane and soybeans, natural vegetations in Brazil, are a part of the biofuel movement to combat the rise of international oil prices. Cattle ranching, too, has become a necessary aspect of Brazilian economy, with a 1-to-1 ratio of human to cattle population.

When market prices increase, so do production costs. Toledo refers to this as “the trickle down effect on production and conservation in the Amazon.” As president of IDESP, Toledo tries to influence public policy through both a territorial and national science that make up sustainable territories which in turn are apart of his “robust database”.

Toledo explained his thought process, “you can’t try to solve problems without having a more broader view other than your single focus”. Toledo explained that miscommunication was the cause of most problems in his work. “By being more informed,” he said, “you are a better decision maker.”

Story 2: It all ties back to social responsibility

The Amazon region has experienced geometric expansion with the rise of environmental issues and disease. Economic issues are the driving force behind deforestation of untouched rainforest. A resolution to developing the untouched rainforest without destroying has yet to be developed.

The 73-year-old Instituto Evando Chagas (IEC) in Ananindeua, Para focuses on public health issues. Para has reported 2 of 59 yellow fever cases on a national level in 2008. Yellow fever, the viral infection recently speculated to have dissipated from Brazil, is transmitted by mosquitoes in tropical areas. Currently, Brazil does not require vaccinations for travelers.

Other diseases, such as Dengue Fever, are epidemics in Brazil. Between 1995 and 2000, Brazil accounted for 2,199,295 Dengue Fever cases — 70 percent of 3,141,850 reported Dengue Fever cases in the Americas. As a result, the estimated cost, including medical care and epidemic preventative and control measures range between $2.4 and $4.7 million US dollars.

Dr. Elisabeth Santos, director of the IEC, compared the current state of health to its status as reported in her 1992 article and was saddened to notice that the health situation has not changed. She noted that the challenge of not having an increase in resources required to properly function to battle the increase in number of diseases.

The IEC prioritizes the adaptation and improvement of surveillance tools such as computer sciences and scientific methods dealing with molecular epidemiology. More recently, satellite imaging of disease occurrences have enabled higher productivity of the institute. The IEC’s eight scientific sections range from virology to parasitology and the institute is currently developing a level-three safety lab for new, highly contagious diseases.

What the future holds for the public health of Brazil is unknown. “This should be paradise,” Santos said. Although the virus cannot disappear from the forest, the issue of social responsibility has a great impact on how populations are affected by development.

For example, in Para, primarily a mining state because of its high concentration of mineral source, it is impossible to mine without destroying the environment. Environmental concerns affecting business practices require attention on a social level as well.

“How can the IEC control such a large area?” Santos asked. The institute provides labs, testing services, and research efforts to address the overall state health. While the IEC’s work is supported by state, federal, and municipal government, the dramatic increase in the number of the diseases is not paralleled by an similar in resources required for the IEC to function.

This economic challenge coupled with the decreasing availability of the Amazonian ecosystem is at the height of Santos’ worries, “We don’t know how long we can count on the Amazon as protection.”

Nationwide preventative efforts against Dengue Fever are initiatives of the IEC and centers alike

The IEC campus consists of four wings to house its eight scientific sections.

The IEC prouds its laboratory sciences and holds classes for its lab technicians.

Dra. Elisabeth Santos, Director of the IEC, faces the many challenges of running the institute with enthusiasm.

The IEC campus is situated outside of the capital city and surrounded by lush greenery.

It’s all connected

Today’s lecture was given by Ima Viera, ecologist specializing in degradation and recuperation of the Amazon and furthermore, general director of Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi. Her lecture was appropriately titled, “Amazonia: the forest for whom?”

She explained one of her research topics: the impact of deforestation. 17 percent of national deforestation was centered in the state of Para alone. The driving reason behind the mass deforestation: cost. As much as deforestation has been a frequent   theme in this class, so has the money-driven motive behind it. It is 10 times cheaper to slash and burn then occupy another federal land and eventually be able to sell that land.

Acai, a native Brazilian fruit, recently became popular in the United States for its high concentration of antioxidants. “It was never so expensive to eat a bowl of Acai,” was the title of article Ms. Vieira explained. Unfortunately, Brazilians get the last pick of quality acai berries. Why? Because the best of the best are the ones that are shipped to international markets. As a result of the rising popularity, local prices have increased dramatically. Acai was once affordable at 1 Real, but 5 years later, it is being sold for 10 Reals.

The main difficulty of deforestation’s economic price tag is just that: the price tag. Putting a price tag on the Amazon forest is troublesome when you don’t really have your price. And you don’t really have your price if you aren’t sure what is actually in the forest.

The number of trees cut between 2003-2004 is estimated at 1,175,830,000. This in turn, has affected the number of primates who are left without a home, which is projected between 914,550 and 2,116, 530. This information ties back to the idea of land ownership. While those behind deforestation have the ability to use land, they don’t necessarily have the property because the actual owner of the land is unknown. Even then, if the state could stop the widespread illegal logging, you would end a lot of jobs, thus creating a social problem just when you thought you were doing something right. Everything is connected- finding the balance remains the problem.

The afternoon included a surprise visit to a former jail and convent-turned-gem museum. Many places here are fond of reinventing themselves! Museu de Gemas do Para featured gemological matter formed in nature devoid of human interference. Brazil is currently the leading gem exporter in the world- and this museum put it all on display. There were quartz arrowheads, gold pieces, Muiraquitas, and more. Muiraquitas, carved green stone amulets) were the most valuable objects of Brazilian archaeology. There are many legends about its mystical powers, The courtyard, adorned with humongous (expensive) rock formations, was beyond idyllic. The building was also home to high-end jewel manufacturers and sellers.

There was also a small room (with an entry way reminiscent of Alice in wonderland doors) in recognition of the old prison that featured punishing tools and other items used by inmates, such as tools for making tattoos.

Our last stop at the building was an amphitheater-like room lined with native canoes that had native crafts and other goods for sale. I picked up an after-dinner acai-based liqueur, native snacks, and nut-based body exfoliant for home.

The next area of the building was the open hall of native goods.

9 native canoes strewn across the wall were such a sight.

The hall of jewel shops had its own manufacturing site

The highlight of the garden was the waterfall featuring three gigantic indigenous rocks.

Because I was so enamored with the garden, I took more pictures of it to display its beauty.

The courtyard area was simple breathtaking.

Polo Joalheiro’s convent was built in 1749 by the Franciscan monks.

The gem museum features a vast variety of gems indigenous to Brasil.

Ima Vieira included this graph displaying the vast cattle-ranching increase.

Director of the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, Ima Vieira, spoke about the ownership battle of the Amazon rainforest.

lecture lecture lecture

Before I describe today’s activities, I’d like to make a quick cultural reference. Yesterday’s Los Angeles Laker victory urged some ecstatic fans to celebrate on the streets of downtown LA. So far, 18 people have been arrested and eight police offers have been injured.  These celebratory riots are completely unnecessary. Why would anyone celebrating a hometown victory be urged to wreck the same city they are supposedly representing?? The LA Lakers deserve the victory parade, but not the troublesome revelers who wrecked downtown, including public buses and police cars (hope they know their tax dollars- if they even pay taxes- are funding the repairs).

Belem’s Arraial do Pavulagem celebration did not cause any violence whatsoever. Although there may have been pickpocketers present in the crowd, I didn’t see one police vehicle. The masses were also celebrating, but nothing spurred them to cause havoc in the city.

Today was full of lectures. In addition to the normal daily presentation from a classmate, we visited the Instituto Evandro Chagas, a public health institute and research center located in Belem’s neighboring city, Ananindeua. We also revisited the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi.

Dr. Elizabeth Santos, Director of the Institute, spoke about the 73-year-old institute’s purpose and also shed light on the social aspect of the health issues that the institute deals with. Dr. Santos began by mentioning her recent review of an article she had published in 1992 and was saddened to notice that the health situation of Para seemed to not changed since then and if anything, it had worsened. For example, Malaria, once thought to be a thing of the past, had recently reoccurred.

The institution focuses on eight scientific divisions: arbovirology and hemorrhagic fevers, bacteriology and mycology, breeding and production of animals for laboratory, hepatology, human ecology and environment, parasitology, pathology, and virology– all of which will be discussed in my second article.

On a social level, Dr. Santos mentioned that poverty was the biggest risk that populations are exposed to in the Amazon region. Before the Amazonian problems can be solved, the nation’s economic inequalities must be addressed.

Afer lunch, we revisited the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi to listen to Claudia Lopez, researcher and anthropologist of indigenous populations. She reviewed the general issues and problems of the indigenous populations in Brazil and gave a short analysis about the implications between national security and the indigenous populations.

There are 230 indigenous ethnic groups in Brazil, of which the greates human diversity reigns from the Amazon region (there are 8). The 180 indigenous languages in Brazil make up 3% of the 6,000 languages in existence worldwide. In her work, learning the native language is crucial in order to communicate properly with the tribe. She is currently working with the Kayapo and Kaapo tribes.

When we arrived back at the hotel, a foreboding rain cloud quickly covered the city. It rained for almost 2 hours straight, with lightning striking constantly and thunder shortly following.  Luckily, the owner of MonaVie  and a sponsor of Lyoto Machida, current UFC champion, crammed 10 of us in their car and gave us a ride back to our hotel. It was an eventful night to say the least.

Upon returning from our daily excursions, a foreboding rain cloud loomed over the city.

Through the use of simple imagery, the book explains many concepts to the indigenous people

Her book was created in a simple manner so that natives could easily understand the material.

Ms. Lopez developed a book explaining the rights of native tribes

Claudia Lopez, researcher and anthropologist specializing in indigenous populations, believed that natives should have the right to self determination.

After relocating from Belem to Ananindeua, the Instituto Evandro Chagas is home to 8 scientific divisions working to improve public health through biomedical research.

Dr. Elizabeth Santos, Director of the institute, stressed the importance of social responsibility in dealing with public health.

Arraial do Pavulagem

Did I mention that Brazil is full of culture?

There were at least 2,000 people on the streets for today’s festival that commenced at Estacao das Docas and ended at the town square. Being in the sea of straw hats, bright colors, beer and caipirinha vendors, and celebrants was exhilarating. At the end of the music filled procession, everyone got their shopping fix by the hundreds of vendors that lined the town square. Anaconda-skin bracelets, hemp bracelets, beaded jewelries, fake futbol jerseys, and much more were available. Having learned my lesson from yesterday’s outing, I purchased an extra wide brimmed hat– one that allowed me to have some space (Brazilians I’ve come across have had no concept of personal space as Americans do).

The currency exchange is definitely working in our favor in Brazil. A (very delicious) stick of meat was only 1 Real, which is equivalent to 50 cents in the US. While I’m on the subject of food, Brazilians are big fans of Italian food, particularly spaghetti noodles (sans sauce), lasagna, and pizza. The latter was tonight’s dinner… and the reason why a lighter and toilet paper are necessities for smell neutralization in our bathroom.

I commend the festive stilt-walkers who walked uphill and on cobbled roads.

The sea of eager celebrants and captivating colors.

Karina & her friends, students at Universidade de Para, were nice enough to be spend time with us today.

Extra-wide brimmed hats were necessary in this heat!

The day I swam in the Amazon River

Being engulfed in the Brazilian culture is great. Today we took a boat ride that featured a live band and dance duo to an island an hour off of the coast of Belem.

As the boat took off, the host of the hour-long on-board entertainment asked the crowd where they came from. Belem is not the #1 tourist spot in Brazil, and we were the only foreigners on the boat. After calling out the Amazonias (people from the state Amazonas) , Paulistas (people from the state Sao Paulo), we finally recognized two words– Estados Unidos. He was referring to us. Of course, we didn’t understand anything before or after that (besides the typical greeting phrases we have drilled into our heads after a week) and assumed he was poking fun at us since the rest of the crowd laughed following everything he said regarding Estados Unidos.

The experience was amazing. We debarked the ship and walked onto a dilapidated bridge and walked for 10 minutes to our final destination. We were excited to eat food since most of us overslept and didn’t have time to eat breakfast.

The river water was so warm and inviting. And we gladly accepted in the invite. Being so close to the equator, the sun is extra intense. I will be coming home at least 5 shades darker than usual.

The riverside walk from the ship to the restaurant area was nice, mostly greenery with 1 home and a beachside eatery/bar. The backyard of a home that was passed by had their laundry hanging out to dry and some clothes were drying on a makeshift clothesline also known as a tree. How resourceful!

Proof that Brazilians are resourceful!

This area of the river was home to so many different plants.

Children of different islands we passed by wait in kayaks for people on the boat to throw them plastic bags full of food.

Another group of villagers we passed by on the way back.

The Belem skyline greeted us upon returning back the dock.

Parts of the Amazon River are so wide that it often looks like the ocean instead of a river.

The Amazon brown water isn’t as threatening as it looks.

Curved palm tree!

Day at the Museums

We returned to Forte do Presépio after it hand been closed on our first attempt. After a short flight of stairs, we had a view of the Amazon River where once again, the boaters were cleaning up after an early morning. One peculiar thing was the floating gas station for the boats, obviously.

The Forte do Presépio, also home to Museo de Encontro, holds a great deal of history. The museum featured many artifacts of the indigenous people, from ritual masks to everyday and special occasion pots. After all, the fort is where the city of Belem started. A photograph featuring the offering of human limb explained the cannibalistic native tribes. The photographs were most captivating for me.

Three black-and-white (about) 18×24-inch photos stuck with me most. One featured a formally-clothed priest performing some sort of religious activity in the middle of a naked tribe (with their posterior sides at the viewer). In the middle was a photograph of a pregnant native laying on a straw mat on the dirt. The last was an up-close, side view photo of an emaciated woman (who almost seemed pregnant, but it was just her ribcage) on her back. Through these, I had more insight to what life was like for the natives of this area.

Next, we visited the church-turned-sacred art museum slash cultural center, Definitely a handful. Santo Alexander, the oldest church in the state of Para, was built from 1698-1719. The 21 years of work on this church is definitely visible. Commissioned by the Jesuits, the church was built from mainly birch, clay, and fish oil glue (the banister of the balcony was a little shaky). Intricate carved woods and gold leaf were reoccurring themes elaborating the grandiose aura of the church, which had opera-style boxes reserved for the affluent members of the congregation.

The last floor of the Santo Alexander church had black-and-white photos of modern day natives. I later learned from Prof. Reis that the bottom floor usually exhibits the work of Brazilian photographers who are a part of the current  photography movement in Brazil.

I had to slyly snap a photo of one of my favorites from the exhibit, mainly for proof that style reinvents itself (deep cut racerback tank tops).

It was Friday, and also June 12, which meant it was dia de los enamorados, simply known as Valentine’s day in the Estados Unidos.  After realizing that fine dining restaurant was only offering special meals that were too expensive for our college-student budgets, we ended up at another restaurant. This restaurant had the same obscure decor as Favela and I really appreciate the avant-garde feel and live music.

We ended the night with a bang by going to Deja Vu, a nightclub tailoring to middle-to-upper class young crowd (we were initially being charged 30 Reals to get in!). The night club’s bartenders even did fireshows throughout the night as the DJs played techno, house, Brazilian, and hip-hop music.

As we entered the restaurant, we were greeted by a king, unicorn, and peace-sign waving dragon.

The lights at Deja Vu were reminiscent of laser beam security.

My favorite photo at the mini-photography exhibit at the Santo Alexander church.

By 9 AM, boaters, merchants, and workers alike are already cleaning up after their early morning business.